kentucky

After we left Maryland we passed through the rolling mountains of West Virginia and into the Bluegrass of Kentucky. The landscape was welcoming and made for a relatively easy drive. We were hit with bursts of rain as we wound our way into the center of Kentucky, in search of a big hole in the ground. 

We made it to Mammoth Cave National Park in the early evening and were surprised to learn that we had passed into the Central Time Zone. We were just a few minutes late to check out the visitor's center that day and so we moved on to find camping. We discovered that while there were numerous sites open, they were in a section of the campground that can only be used with reservations or if you had an RV. We found this to be odd since the vendor in charge of the campground was essentially saying that they would not take our money because we had not reserved a space online and did not have an RV. One would think that they would simply be happy to get $17 a night, but instead we drove around to the "primitive" campsites on the west side of the park. We had luck here and instead of paying $17 a night we paid $12, camped right on the water, and only had about ten other campmates (as opposed to 110). I'd say we won in the grand scheme of things, we just had a bit of a drive from the center of the park.

Once camping was figured out we settled in for a night of bad country music and abundant campfires from our neighbors. We found the local hotspot for a Saturday night for sure. 

For our first full day of exploring at Mammoth Cave we adventured above ground. We had a rocky start as I managed to wipe out on my bike about ten feet into our ride, but after that we had roughly 17 miles of uninterrupted riding on the park's Railroad Bike and Hike Trail. After finishing our ride we had some lunch and then set out on the hiking trails. We had views of the Green River and numerous sink holes; we were able to check out the natural entrance (and natural air conditioning) of the cave system; and we came across hundreds of miniature toads. While most people go to Mammoth Cave simply for the experience of going into the world's largest cave, I would recommend taking the time to see what is happening above ground as well. It's pretty spectacular.

bike and hike trail

nature's canvas

look closely for bullfrogs and dragonflies 

toads the size of my pointer finger nail

golden salamanders

On our second day at Mammoth Cave we spent the morning visiting some trails that wind through some of the more prominent sink holes in the park (Cedar Sink and Turnhole Bend) and then we prepared for cave explorations. Even in the middle of summer caves can be quite chilly. We bundled up and listened as our Park Ranger explained how we would be going over the bottomless pit and climbing several hundred stairs on the Historic Tour. We were also warned that Mammoth Cave is not a wet cave - this means that there are not spectacular formations (like stalagmites and stalactites) - but that we would see the remnants of saltpeter mines from the war of 1812. This was a whole new caving experience for us. The passageways were quite large (except for fat man's misery and tall man's misery) and the rooms were monstrous. It was great to see just how different caves can be when they are formed differently.

the natural entrance

the sign says it all

We had a slight break after finishing the Historic Tour before going underground at dusk. We went on a lantern tour to explore the Star Chamber (this place once inspired Emerson to write the poem, "Illusions") and to see Gothic Avenue. After the introduction by the Park Ranger (with warnings to not touch anything) we once again passed through the natural entrance of the cave. This time our passage was different from our earlier tour as everything was transformed in the light of a mere 12 lanterns as opposed to the standard stage lighting that runs through the cave. We passed by rooms that had been used in attempts to cure tuberculosis patients and into the famous Star Chamber. 

In the chamber, with our lanterns having been removed from our immediate surroundings, the night sky appeared above us. The stars began to twinkle and you could see the edges of the canyon walls that enveloped us. And then we were brought back to reality. We were 160 feet underground. Everything that we were seeing was a breathtaking illusion. Then, we dove into darkness as the rangers took our lanterns on a walk. One of the experiences that I always look forward to in a cave is this exposure to pure darkness. It is a moment that is as relaxing as it is tense. It is freeing, yet claustrophobic. And then some kid stomps his feet to make those annoying little lights start to flash. With teacher voices coming out of the mouths of every other person on the tour, this youngster stopped pretty quickly, but the moment was lost. I am of the opinion that with all of the requirements that are in place with regards to entering caves, flashing shoes should join cigarettes and fire arms on the list of banned items.

We finished this final tour with a pass through Gothic Avenue. Here we saw the names of those that came before us - carved and smoked into the walls of the cave. Some names were backward thanks to the brilliant idea of using cosmetic mirrors to lessen the strain on one's neck when defacing the cave (and to keep animal fat from the candles from dripping on one's face). There were cairns that had been built over the course of tours after writing names had been banned. It was fantastic. We did turn the lights on for a short while as we left the passageway so that we could have a better look at the names, and then we finished the tour by light of the lanterns once more.

names with a cairn built to honor kentucky (yes, it touches the ceiling)

some of those backward names

We climbed out of the cave into more darkness. We cleaned our shoes (to help prevent the spread of White Nose Syndrome) and then went our separate ways. For us, that meant returning to the car for a night of driving. Kentucky was fun, but with the end of summer approaching, we had to be on our way.

dc [and surrounding areas]

After our fantastic time in the wilds of Maine, the DC area came as quite a shock to our small town selves. While the city is impressive, city living is not for everyone. We are not city people, and this became quite apparent during our brief stay in the greater Capitol region. Though, I will say that cities that have public transportation figured out do have that going for them. And DC seems to have it figured out (based on our limited interactions with the transit system).

We did manage to merge one of our joys - camping - with the big city. The city of Greenbelt is home to Greenbelt Park, a nice little NPS parking that boasts affordable camping and a couple of nice trails just a mile and a half walk away from the College Park metro station. We camped, did some trail running, and eventually made our way to the metro. We rode into the city and walked the day away, taking in the sights.

sculpture garden

Throughout the day we meandered through a variety of Smithsonian Museums and through the National Mall. We saw the popular monuments and memorials that are scattered around the mall and then hopped off of the Mall walkways and checked out MLK, FDR, and the Jefferson Memorial. For future visits, I think I would be happy just seeing MLK and FDR. Both really strike me as being memorials that our lives are modeled after - working to provide opportunities for all, regardless of their life circumstances. 

MLK memorial

The following day we made it to Teddy's Island and added a third site in the city that we would be happy to return to. Theodore Roosevelt helped to expand the National Park Service and for that we are forever grateful. We think of him every summer when we travel, and try to live a lifestyle that promotes conservation and ecological awareness. 

our friend teddy

Our time in the DC area ended with some time with friends. We had a great lunch with our former country director from Peace Corps and then made our way north to Baltimore (which took far longer than it should have - really, city people, if you have public transportation, use it!) to visit friends that we met during Peace Corps. It was a nice way to break away from the overstimulation of the city.

from our wanderings at ARTSCAPE in baltimore

maine

It doesn't seem to matter where we travel or what we do, Maine always tops our list of favorite places on earth. There is something about the gnarly mountain trails, the cool ocean breezes, and the calm and quirky way of life that just makes Maine feel like home, no matter how long we have been gone for.

We began our Maine adventure at Grafton Notch State Park. There is a loop trail that goes through the park and some private land that is just fantastic (and aptly named the Grafton Loop Trail). The park also encompasses approximately 20 miles of the Appalachian Trail (AT). This park provides us with grueling work and wondrous views. The mister took the opportunity to "run" the loop trail (approximately 38 miles of gnarl) while I hiked portions of the AT and explored some sites within the park that we hadn't been to before. We also followed through on intentions that we have always had to buy sweet treats from the "pie lady" on Bear River Road. While the mister was still on the trails I picked up a blueberry-apple pie and a whoopee pie (which managed to disappear before Chris got back to the car, oops!). If you ever make it to the area, stop by and get yourself something delicious to eat! It's worth it!

screw auger falls

After our Grafton adventures we went south to Freeport. It was nice to wander around L.L. Bean's flagship store, but we have either refined our taste in outdoor gear or we have become frugal, because nothing caught our eyes for more than a passing glance. The town has changed since we were there last, with an influx of outlets. Thankfully our favorite pizza place in town is still going strong (it's been around for longer than the Bean). We had delicious eats and then meandered to Oxford to check out a New Balance tent sale (our taste in running shoes is pretty specific to NB and we walked away with three pairs of shoes and a couple of pairs of pants) before moving up the coast to Morrill. 

The midcoast holds a special place in our hearts after living there for a couple of years. We were able to catch up with friends, eat at our favorite restaurant, wander around downtown Belfast, enjoy a free big band concert in the street, and visit our wedding spot. There were too many people and places to visit in the time that we had there, but we made a pretty good go of things before moving up the coast a little further to Acadia National Park.

where the ocean becomes mountains

Acadia is the epitome of Maine for us. The mountains rise out of the ocean. The trails are welcoming yet require some grit to get to the good stuff. There are trees and water (not just the ocean, but lakes and ponds and streams) all around. There is something about Acadia that just sucks us in, and we honestly wouldn't be too sad to be sucked in and never released. We have been there in all seasons, and each season presents a different side of the park. This summer we were also able to explore a new side of the park - the carriage roads. We biked together for a day and then spent a day going our own pace and exploring different parts of the park. We have so many memories of the park, stories of our visits there that still make me smile, and this trip was special in its own right. Again, it was like going home. We have hiked every trail in the park system, and so we were able to go back to our favorites and rediscover why they were special to us in the first place. Hopefully it won't take us five years to get back.

riding on the carriage roads

we made it to the top of day mountain

enjoying sand beach

As all good things do, our time in Acadia came to an end. We returned to the midcoast and explored Camden Hills State Park, had great dinners and conversations with friends, and revisited the bakery that made our wedding cake. It may have come a little early, but an anniversary slice of carrot cake from 3 Dogs Cafe was heavenly. And then, just like that, we were driving out of the state on a rainy Wednesday Morning.

bass harbor light house

missouri

We began our Missouri adventures at George Washington Carver National Monument. We went in expecting to learn more about the "Peanut Man" and were pleasantly surprised by the incredible life that this man led. From being raised as a slave at the end of the Civil War to teaching individuals how to become self-sustaining, G.W. Carver made a difference in the lives of others. It was simply by chance and an itch for adventure that we were able to learn more about his life, principles, and practice.

on the carver trail

on the carver trail

george washington carver

After leaving Diamond, we drove to Van Buren where we settled in for a couple of days at Ozark National Scenic Riverways. Our time in Van Buren was filled with trips to Big Spring, exploring the few trails that were available, riding our bikes, and floating on the Current River. We had a great campsite, even if a tree branch did find its way through our rainfly and tent one afternoon while we were out exploring. With a little bit of duct tape and seam sealer we made a patch that kept the rain out; with some packing tape we made a patch that kept the bugs out. It was a great couple of days and we fell in love with Missouri.

nothing a little duct tape won't fix

floating on the current

big spring 

big spring

big spring

butterflies were everywhere

big spring in action (13,000 liters per second)

everyone needs a good accidental photo

something in-between a trail run and a hike

Our time in Missouri did come at the end of our summer grad school course, and so we did need to spend one day putting adventure on hold (for the most part). We found a great little public library in Farmington where we wrote our final papers for the summer. Then we found that we could squeeze a little adventure into the day and drove up to St. Louis for a trip to the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial. We ended what began as a subdued day in the library with a trip 630 feet up into the arch and with a walk through the Museum of Westward Expansion.

the arch

us outside of the arch

a long way up

us inside of the arch

With nighttime upon us, we began our drive to the next adventure. Nighttime driving inevitably means a night in the car as opposed to the tent, but once again, it means we're up and moving first thing in the morning. Check back soon for our adventures in Ohio!